KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING AROUND THE COMPONENT SO YOU DON'T MELT SOMETHING IMPORTANT. Since the solder is lead-free it requires that extra heat. Then use just a touch of flux on each joint (you really don't need much) and a heat gun at about 400-450F (~220C). To remove it, I put the board in a clamp (there are components on the bottom of the board directly beneath the encoder so don't let anything touch those while you're working). I didn't take a picture of with the aluminum tape on so here's an example with some mediocre photo shop. Once the board is out, just pop it off with a little tug.Īt this point, you're ready to replace the incremental encoder (fancy terms for volume control).īefore you attempt to remove the encoder, put some aluminum tape against the nearest tactile switch (button) so you don't melt it (just a good precaution). The volume knob will still be attached to the board. The speaker will travel with the board as you work with it so be aware of that. Removing the volume knob and button array board can take some convincing but take your time, it'll come out. Un-latch the ribbon cable to the button array board. The buttons and power switch plate will be loose so take that off next. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE SPEAKER WIRE. Taking apart the headset is pretty straight forward.Īfter taking off the cushion (just slips off), it's just a few philips screws and the speaker will come right off. Replacement incremental encoder EC05E1220401 (volume control) found here:Īlps Alpine Incremental Encoder, Buy from Mouser A littler larger than any jewelers screw driver) Tiny philips screw driver (P1 I think it's called. My final solution was to do some surgery. The only way to get the volume to go back down is to gently turn the volume knob down as slowly and delicately as possible. When you try to turn the volume knob in either direction, it tends to "freak out" and turn the volume up all the way. So I've been dealing with a glitchy volume knob on my G933s for a while.
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